If our trip were like a 7-course meal, the train would be
the sorbet in between to cleanse our pallets. I thought it would be adventurous
to take the train, like out of a western, but really it just felt special and
different. There was no adventure to it – I just felt like a sponge the entire
time, trying to soak up every scene, turn, and bend in the road.
Jenn and I arrived at the Via Rail Station in Vancouver
Friday evening for our 8:30pm train around 7:50, and after a few
mis-directions, we found our first class car. I didn’t know it was first class
until I saw the economy accommodations and I was so thankful for the 50% off
fare sale that allowed us to rent beds for the evening. We were supposed to be
in two upper berths, basically two top bunks facing each other, but as luck
would have it, the next section was empty so the train concierge person moved
us to our own area! Francoise turned our two benches into two bunk beds and
after a long day of walking, I think we were asleep before 10, barely out of
Vancouver. I got top bunk (I called it),
and Jenn got the killer view in the bed below me. Our train manager-person
explained the emergency procedures and Jenn and I stared out the window with
anticipation for when the train would start to move.
The beds were comfy, the pillows soft as air, and with the
curtain pulled across, the area was pitch black. It was interesting trying to
sleep, as every time we took a sharp turn I think I woke up and rolled over, an
unusual occurrence for me. Nonetheless,
we woke up at about the same time the next morning between 8 and 9 (though
closer to 9), and I crawled into Jenn’s bed to see the amazing breakfast scenery.
We were near Kamloops. There were rolling hills, covered in green as far as the
eye could see, and a beautiful still lake reflecting the landscape. It was like
something out of Lord of the Rings; I thought we were in New Zealand! It was
hard to believe we got to witness this amazing sight, and to learn that the
view would continually improve over the next 10 hours was constantly a
surprise. Around each turn the landscape changed slightly and like when you’re
staring into the Grand Canyon, you can’t help but to be in awe and thankful for
that moment. Then the next turn comes and it’s differently amazing.
We wandered down to the breakfast car. I really should say
we stumbled down, using our arms as bumpers. From our car, there was a bit of a
maze before you passed through the activity car. The activity car consisted of
a few tables with board games and stairs leading up to an observation area.
Here the walls and ceiling were all windows. Truly a majestic sight. The next
car was the dining car. We were seated at an elegant table with linen table
cloths and fancy jars of jam and peanut butter, unsure if we were really
supposed to be there, as if there were some mistake. I can now understand where
the slang ‘diner’ came from as this is clearly what the old diner cars resembled.
After a filling breakfast of French toast stuffed with cheesecake – yes you
read that right, we went back to our seats where we proceeded to read and nap
intermittently. Yes it was quite difficult.
The landscape slowly changed from rounded to pointed tops,
gradually becoming the rocky mountain peaks that you’ve seen in pictures. There
were many pools of water, streams, and green everywhere, with the pointed, snow
covered rocks in the background. I was in awe of how tall the trees were. It
seems most were more than 50 feet straight up. I have trouble standing
perfectly straight at my height of 5’5”; every flower I’ve ever grown (both of
them) has a curve at some point. How are these trees so perfectly straight?
We were called to lunch only hours after our first large
meal, and I enjoyed scallops wrapped in shrimp over a delectable salad. Rough,
huh? We again retired to our car and our train manager was kind enough to leave
it in bed format. So, we enjoyed the view from Jenn’s bed, intermittently
napping and reading, and trying to capture on camera what could only be
appreciated with the eye and soul. At one point, I saw a baby black bear,
probably about 6 feet tall, climbing up a slope only feet from the train. By
the time I roused Jenn, he had ducked into the trees. Majestic. During dinner
we saw elk and Jenn saw a moose (though in true karma fashion, I missed it).
One interesting note about the train was the lack of electricity
and internet. Buses have these now, so I assumed the train would. Silly
assumption. We had 1 electrical outlet in our entire car (in the woman’s
bathroom), and in the common areas there were only 2, which were shared by many.
With nothing to do for 24 hours, we could only rely on our electronics for as
long as our batteries would last. This was nice and annoying. Plus I think we
just napped more as a result.
It was fun trying to shower on the train. I thought this was
how James Bond would feel doing mundane tasks like showering – while moving and
trying to balance. Occasionally I would bang the side of the shower, but the
whole time, the Bond theme was repeating in my head: ‘dun na naaa, dun na naaa,
nu nuh’.
We were running about 2 hours behind so our stop in Jasper,
Alberta occurred at 7. We got out to stretch our legs and wander around the
quaint skiing village. It was adorable, more akin to a European village. The
mountains in the background were eclipsed by two and three story wooden ski
chalets, quaint restaurants, and fun shops. I could see spending a lot of time
in this little village. After a 30 minute walk, we headed back to the train,
boarded, and were called to our third massive meal of the day. I enjoyed giant
scallops in a cream sauce with cheese ravioli, followed by rich chocolate cake.
Yes please!
During this meal, we were seated with an extra guest, like
you would on a cruise ship. A random fellow we’ll call Bob sat with us, and he
enjoyed Jasper in a more ‘herbal’ way than the rest of the passengers. Boy was
he entertaining. He was the sort of person that the servers dread and yet laugh
at every interaction. Bob knew all of the servers by name and would ask for
favors or have silly questions, and the servers would answer with an eye roll
and a smile. It was so entertaining to hear him talk. We got into a conversation
about space and NASA, and poor Jenn’s eyes glazed over. (I’m not sure what she
was thinking about for the next 2 hours of conversation.) With the delay, we
were going to be on the train until 1:30am, so Bob really made the time pass in
a fun way. During our time with Bob, we saw the sun set, passed the tallest
peak of the Rockies, and admired a rock formation that looked a lot like Pocahontas.
We left the train at 1:30am and jumped in a cab (transpo
mode 6) to our Ramada in Edmonton. Day 4 ended with our hearts full, stomachs
in pain from laughing, and feeling very refreshed for a few more crazy paced
days. Our sorbet complete, pallets cleansed, we were ready for the next course!
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